Innovative Anti-Aging Skincare Ingredients

The bad news about our skin: collagen loss is inevitable and happens to both men and women after the age of 25 – next to sun damage, this is one of the second cause of fine lines, wrinkles and loss of firmness and elasticity. The good news is that scientists and cosmetic companies are creating new and innovative skincare ingredients at rapid rates to deliver advanced effectiveness to serums and moisturizers.

Below are some of the current skincare ingredients that have been making headlines.

* Antioxidants - Some of the most researched and well-known antioxidants are ingredients like Vitamins A, C, and E
- Vitamin C :
·Potent antioxidant, noted for protecting skin cells from sun damage
·Low risk of skin irritation at concentrations of 10 percent or lower
·Strengthens skin’s barrier and minimizes water loss
·Encourages collagen production, thereby thickening the skin’s dermal layer
·Reduces inflammation
·Lightens hyperpigmentation

- Vitamin E :
·Protects the skin from UVA damage
·Increases sunscreen’s efficacy, especially when combined with other antioxidants
·Works synergistically with Vitamin C
·Lessens the impact of free radicals from stress
·Protects the skin’s lipid balance
·Helps reduce the intensity of a sunburn
·Lubricates the skin with natural emollients

- Vitamin A :
·Retinol refers to the entire Vitamin A molecule, which can be broken down into smaller components such as retinoic acid and retinaldehyde
·Promotes collagen production
·Reverses certain types of sun damage
·Increases the thickness of the dermis

* Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Petapeptide-3) - An ingredient developed from research studies to find a product to treat skin wounds and wrinkles, matrixyl helps to stimulate the function of fibroblasts, tiny, specialized cells that help repair damaged tissue and help the process of forming new tissue. Fibroblasts are present in mature skin but are not as active since collagen levels are ceased after the age of 45. Found in serums and moisturizers.

* Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3) – A combination of amino acids (AAs) that forms a neuropeptide that relaxes muscles that cause wrinkles and expression lines. Thus, its function is similar to Botox. Argireline is especially effective around the eyes and on the forehead and is found in serums. Argireline can also reduce the look of fine lines by approximately 30%, is non-toxic and so far has no proven side effects. Found in serums.

* Antarcticine – One of the newest discoveries in the quest for smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. Antarcticine is a strain of bacteria called Pseudoaltermonas Antarctica, which was discovered at the bottom of a glacier on Antarctica. This strain of bacteria yields several functions, including interacting with collagen to help increase collagen production, increasing elastin formation, increasing moisture and hydration and increasing the healing and repair of damaged tissue. Antarcticine has been shown to be effective in cold weather climates, making this an effective ingredient for skin that has been stressed out from cold and wind. Found in serums and moisturizers.

* Allistin – also spelled Alistin. A pseudodipeptide that helps inhibit oxidation in cells by blocking inflammatory enzymes that could break down cell structures. Found in serums.

* Keratoline – an enzyme that has shown to be highly compatible with skin. Keratoline works as a bio-exfoliator and is as potent as an alpha hydroxy acid but is gentle on the skin. Found in moisturizers.

* Songyi Mushroom – a bio-herbal extract used for many centuries in Japan that effectively lightens skin and improves the skin’s condition. Songyi mushroom is called Matsutake in Japan and is an edible fungus in Asia. Songyi mushroom helps to rejuvenate skintone by promoting new cell growth without causing dell death to melanin pigment cells. Found in cleansers, serums and moisturizers.

The list of anti-aging skincare ingredients increases every year, with ingredients being discovered to be more potent against free radicals, pollutants and aggressors that can affect skin. Below are additional ingredients that have gained attention for their roles in preserving skin structure.

* Durian – the extract derived from the Durian fruit, a prominent fruit in Asian countries, contains oraganosulfurs (organic compounds with sulfurs) that has been backed by scientific studies to have various skin benefits. These organosulfurs contribute to anti-inflammatory properties that help protect collagen and elastin, are a good source of enzyme development, help detoxify the body, are anti-bacterial and on a skincare level, help enhance the complexion and breakup scar tissue. Despite having a scent that has been compared to decayed flesh, Durian is considered in Asia the “King of Fruits” and the best source is by eating the flesh; however, another source is serums.

* Allantoin – this ingredient is derived from the roots and leaves of the comfrey plant, which has been extensively used in products for healing bruises, treating wounds and decreasing surface inflammation. At an internal level, allantoin helps promote healthy cell renewal and is found in cleansers, toners, acne products, serums, moisturizers and some sunscreens. Effective even at low concentrations (0.1% to 2%)

* Ectoin – a natural, active substance that is effective in minimizing the damage from UVA exposure. Ecotin also helps retain moisture in the skin and protects skin cells from viruses, extreme temperature changes, chemicals, allergens and bacteria. Ectoin is most active in an extreme environmental setting, such as high UV radiation exposure, dryness and high salinity and is found in serums.

* Mamaku New Zealand Fern – this extract works best at night with an individual’s circadian rhythm (an organism’s internal time clock) to help increase cell turnover and maintain hydration levels. Found in serums.

* Quercetin – a flavonoid (antioxidant) found in apples and red onions, quercetin protects skin cells from pollutant stress and has anti-cancer, anti-ulcer, anti-allergy and anti-inflammatory properties. Quercetin also spares vitamin C and can be found in serums but is most active in a supplement form.

* ALA (Alpha Lipoic Acid) : Studies show that when taken a supplement, ALA has many potential health benefits. As a skincare ingredient, it can diminish the appearance of wrinkles and help firm the skin. ALA also helps with puffiness and under-eye bags.

* Idebenone: This antioxidant has been used for pharmaceutical purposes for years. Recently it’s been touted as one of the most potent antioxidants available. Research suggests that Idebenone helps skin lipids defend themselves from free radical damage and degradation. Idebenone is structurally similar to CoQ10.

* GABA (Gama Amino Butyric Acid): When added to treatment creams, this amino acid is supposed to simulate a Botox-like effect. It may help to smooth fine lines, wrinkles and crows feet around the eyes and mouth, and between the brows.

* Kinetin is a naturally occurring plant growth hormone proven to slow the aging process in plant cells. When used in skincare products, Kinetin helps improve skin texture, lighten hyperpigmentation and even-out blotchy skin. Kinetin is considered a gentler alternative to prescription Retinoids.

* Olive Oil and human skin both contain squalane, an ingredient that oxygenates and nourishes cells. Therefore, olive oil-based products give your skin a nutrient boost. Olive oil is also packed with vitamins and free radical killing antioxidants. The Japanese and Italians have used pure olive oil as a beauty booster for centuries.

* Polyphenols - Sources of polyphenols include green tea, white tea, grape seed extract, olive oil, dark chocolate, and pomegranates. Here’s how they work:
·Grape seed extract: Free radical scavengers that strengthen and repair damaged cells with flavanoids. Also a rich source of Essential Fatty Acids.
·Green tea: Calms and visible and internal signs of inflammation.
·Pomegranate: Reinforces the skin’s structural fibers and boots sun protection.

* Inflammation-reducing ingredients to look for in skincare products include:
·Arnica,
·Licorice
·Aloe Vera
·Curcumin
·Chamomile,
·Lavender
·Panthenol,
·Allantoin
·Zinc

* AHAs - If used correctly, AHAs like Glycolic and Lactic acids help antioxidant ingredients do their job. AHAs rejuvenate the skin by exfoliating the skin’s dead top layer and revealing healthier skin. Dead skin cells not only make skin look dull, they create a barrier that blocks product penetration. AHAs have proven to help skin function better by removing layers of sun-damaged skin.

* The following ingredients will keep the skin moist and are suitable for all skin types:
·Hyaluronic acid
·Sodium PCA
·Amino Acids
·Plant-based lipids
·Safflower seed oil
·Borage seed oil
·Evening primrose oil
·Glycerin

Above all, healthy lifestyle is a key component in your anti-aging regimen. In addition to incorporating the antioxidants and sun protection that best suit your skin type, proper nutrition, adequate sleep and emotional balance will do wonders for your skin.